When I visited Bosnia and Herzegovina I wasn’t prepared for the beauty that I was going to see and experience. I based myself in Mostar and traveled the surrounding towns and to the main city, Sarajevo. The locals are kind, the food is great and the history is sobering. I wish I stayed longer because I know there was far more to discover than what I got to see.

Day 1: Explore Mostar

This should always be the first thing you do when you enter a new city, get up early and experience the town during the golden hour when most people are still asleep, walk through the cobblestone streets and check out the markets later in the day. Enjoy some traditional baklava with an eastern European beer and get to know the locals. The fabulous thing about Mostar is that it’s not a one level town; there are bridges leading to different streets and descending stone stairwells which take you to beautiful cafes and pubs. 

Be sure to check out ‘Stari Most’, the towns old bridge which connects two parts of the city over the Neretva River. The original was destroyed in 1993 and was 427 years old upon its destruction. Spanning 29 metres across the river and only 4 metres wide it’s easily recognisable for it’s arch shape, during the day in the summer months you will have the chance to see dare devils risking their necks to jump off the bridge which can reach 20 metres high depending on water level. The jump requires prior practice to ensure no limbs are damaged entering the water, as serious injuries and death and previously occurred.

Mostar also has their own pack of friendly stray dogs, which I believe a few of the establishments take turns in caring for, you will usually see about 3-4 of them wandering the streets together or soaking up the sun in the rocky platform below Stari Most. 

If you’re craving a cold beverage then check out the Black Dog Pub, the staff are great and the stone building borders the river below for a constant stream of natures music.​​​

Sniper Tower

If war torn and abandoned buildings interest you then I suggest making the short trip to see the sniper tower in Mostar. The former multi story bank turned sniper hideout is now a derelict concrete skeleton filled with colourful displays of art and graffiti. It’s not recommended to enter due to multiple hazards, but standing outside the bricked up entrance observing the hundreds of bullet holes is enough to make any spine tingle. 

Mostar Bridge – Stari Most

Stari Most is an Ottoman bridge that was originally built in the 16th century and is considered an incredible piece of Balkan Islamic architecture. Construction of the original bridge began in 1557 and took 9 years to construct; connecting together two parts of Mostar which were separated by the Neretva river.

During the Croat-Bosniak war in the early 90’s the bridge collapsed due to shelling but was subsequently rebuilt and opened again in 2004.

Stari Most bridge is 4 metres wide and 30 metres long, spanning across the Neretva river 24 metres below. Well known for its annual diving competition at the end of July and it has been a feature of the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series. Jumping from the Mostar Bridge requires training and skill due to the height, tourists can also partake in jumping off the bridge year round and your name gets written into the Mostar Bridge Jumping book.

Day 2: Sarajevo

If Mostar is going to be your main place for accommodation in Bosnia and Herzegovina then I recommend visiting Sarajevo for the day; there are plenty of museums which cover local history including the beginning of WWI and the most recent Croat-Bosniak war. Leave the city centre and venture out to the streets to see hundreds of buildings still scared with bullet holes. A sobering experience especially if you have just left one of the many pubs within the main centre.

Day 3: Road Trip South of Mostar

For this road trip you will either need to hire a car, or check with your hostel hosts if they know of any tours that travel between these beautiful locations.

Dervish House (Blagaj Tekija Monastery)

20 minutes south from Mostar sits the Dervish House, otherwise known as Blagaj Tekij monastery. Built in 1520 by the Dervish as a spiritual retreat, this 600 year old monastery is tucked away at the foot of a cliff beside the calm, flowing waters of the Buna River. This peaceful retreat entices thousands of visitors a year, religious or not, to the calming and serene surrounds of Blagaj.

You can take a short tour of the monastery if you’re willing to part with a few marks, all footwear must be removed, legs and shoulders must be covered and women can’t have their hair showing; scarfs and wraps are provided at no extra cost for this purpose.

Kravica Waterfall

Travel an hour from either Mostar or Blagaj Tekija to take a refreshing dip in the fresh water of Kravica waterfall. Sitting at 25 metres tall with a base of the waterfall of a 120 meter long radius, Kravica waterfall is popular destination among tourists and locals no matter what the season.

The base of Kravica waterfall forms into a river that splits the picnic area in half, a small boat runs daily across the river if you don’t want to swim to the other side. A café in the waterfall area is open daily which provides snacks and drinks of either the alcoholic or non-alcoholic kind.

The flow of these spectacular waterfalls of Bosnia and Herzegovina depends entirely on the amount of rainfall in the weeks leading up to your visit, during extremely wet weather you can expect the picnic area to be almost obsolete.
Unfortunately I’m not sure of any public transport to these falls so check with your accommodation for day trips. It costs to enter so be sure to take a few euros or marks with you as well.

Check out the waterfall further by clicking here.

Polcitelj

On your way back from Kravica waterfall you can stop into a historic town called Pocitelj. Drive 25 minutes from Kravica and you will come across a 700 year old town made of stone.
Polcitelj is well known for it’s fresh pomegranate and cherry juices, which you can buy from any of the stalls or shops. Climb the stairs to the top of fortress and overlook the town and valley below for a fantastic photo opportunity.

Other Things to do in Bosnia

If you’re looking for more things to do in Bosnia and Herzegovina then check out this day trip itinerary from Sarajevo to Mostar. This guide has everything you need to know from how to travel whether via private car or public transport, and incredible sights along the way.